Phong Dinh

152 Hopkins St, Footscray. Phone: 9077 9098

A couple of previous incarnations at this address – one of them Korean – came and went without us taking them for a whirl.

Going by the good trade they are doing this Monday lunch time, it seems a good bet that Phong Dinh will be around a good deal longer.

It’s a lovely room, cleverly using some of the more upmarket vibe of several of its Viet neighbours yet still playing the role of affordable noodle house, a fact attested to by the menu prices.

The colour scheme is a bit darker than your standard noodle joint, though, and the effect is calming and tranquil.

As well, there’s a semi-alfresco area containing a handful of tables from which observing the street hustle and bustle is no doubt a lot of fun.

My can of soft drink is presented alongside a tumbler packed with ice cubes – always a nice touch.

You’ll find pho here, but the list is a lot broader than that – there’s a heap of interesting noodle and rice dishes.

The “hu tieu mi”, which precedes the restaurant’s name in its signage, denotes a focus on rice and egg noddles, in soup or dry with soup on the side.

Bun thang ($9) is described as Hanoi chicken soup with vermicelli.

From what I’ve been able to discover, it’s a northern dish rather than one specifically associated with Hanoi.

And while there is some chicken – poached, small pieces, some with fiddly bones – it is matched and more in terms of quantity by the traditional ingredients of slices of splendidly eggy omelette that is both yellow and white and Vietnamese pork loaf (cha).

One seemingly knowledgeable source I found says the stock should be a mix of chicken and pork, but this – as far as I can tell – is chicken only, delicious as it is.

The accompanying plate of greenery includes not only the sprout-and-herb combo that comes with pho but also lettuce and cabbage of both white and yellow varieties.

This all adds some handy crunch and colour to a dish that needs it.

It’s a beaut lunch but very mild of flavour.

I usually leave the addition of lemon juice until near the completion of most soup noddle dishes I order; here it goes in early on – along with slices of fresh red chilli – to give it all a bit of a boost.

Still, the lighter touch is a winner for situations in which more meaty options may be a matter of too much of a good thing.

Phong Dinh strikes me as a very handy addition to the range of Footscray Vietnamese eateries.

You can Ms Baklover’s review at Footscray Food Blog here.

Pho Tam

 Shop 7-9, Leeds St, Footscray. Phone: 9687 2680

These days, when desiring to be out and about in Footscray central, we find it rewarding and less time consuming to park by the railways tracks, just around the corner from the Dancing Mutt.

In the days when we were still falling for the folly of attempting to park on the other side of the CED (Central Eating District), we often passed Pho Tam going elsewhere, mainly because it always seemed so crowded and busy.

I’ve spent an aimless day-off half-hour wandering between those two outer extremes of the CED with no particular place to go, as that zealous fan of multicultural food, Chuck Berry, once famously sung.

It’s Pho Tam or retrace my steps. I am happy to step through the doorway.

I like the plain wooden tables and chairs, the Viet pop at just the right volume and smiling, prompt service.

I especially like the symbolic artwork in the windows that links maps of Australia and Vietnam with a bowl and chopsticks. Pity it doesn’t photograph too well!

Customers are few, and for my most of lunch’s duration I am alone.

The menu is varied and full of interest.

I consider the mi Quang Bennie and I had tried the previous week at the brand new Braybrook place Quan Viet.

I finally decide on a dish I’ve never before seen in a Vietnamese eatery – goat curry (ca ri de). At $11, it’s a buck more than the chicken wing curry (ca ri ga) and the stewed beef (bo kho). Instead of noodles, I ask for the bread option.

I am surprised to get two crusty rolls with my bowl of intrigue. Asking if it’s mandatory to fully consume both, I am told that there’ll be no dessert for me unless I do.

As I expect, my curry is thin, mild and on the bone.

I like it  a lot.

The meat comes easily from the bone, though I thoroughly enjoy eating with zen-like deliberation in order to preserve teeth into which I have invested many thousands to the vast enrichment of my dentist.

Unlike many other experiences with cheaper, bone-in cuts of meat – both at home and eating out – there is little obvious fat, though for reasons both to do with squeamishness and healthiness I do set aside the bits of flabby goat hide.

There’s onions galore – thin slices and thicker chunks of the adult variety; chopped and segments of the young, green type.

But as with roti and Malaysian-style curry, in many ways the main event is the gravy/soup and the bread – and I’m surprised that I devour far more of my second, lovely role than I had expected.

Still, I do not quite finish it, so … no dessert for me!

The Footscray Food Blog review of Pho Tam is here.

Hien Vuong 1

37 Leeds St, Footscray. Phone: 9687 1470

Expert assessment of my Saturday shopping list suggests Footscray Market is the best bet for ease and pricing.

I may struggle with the hambone, ham hock or bacon bones for the next day’s red beans and rice, and a visit to the market’s supermarket just for milk is probably unwarranted – but other than that it should be a sweet experience.

So it is I head up the ramps for the extremely cheap market parking, ending up – for the first time ever – on the roof. Great views!

First things first, though – never shop, especially in a cool market, on an empty stomach.

I’ve been a visitor to Hien Vuong 1 a few times previous, though with little or no recollection of taste sensations. Maybe pretty good pho and bo kho (beef casserole).

Nevertheless, after a nerve-jangling week I find the tiled floor, chromed furniture and Viet pop enormously comforting. This, today, right now, is where I belong.

It’s a hardcore pho joint that offers a little more variety than most.

Thus it is that I order the special chicken rice with chicken (com ga hai nam).

This is a gamble, no doubt. As the Vietnamese title denotes, this is a Viet twist on hainanese chicken rice of Malaysian derivation.

My strike rate at ordering this dish at non-Malay places is pretty much zero – ranging from utterly lame to the outright bizarre (the otherwise exemplary Carlton Chinese Noodle Cafe in Rathdowne St, review forthcoming).

I need not have worried, as my lunch is beaut.

There’s no soup, but all the other bells and whistles – so important for this dish – are present.

The chilli/carrot/fish sauce concoction on the side gets into the spirit of the occasion by coming with mashed ginger.

The rice is OK, but has no discernible chicken flavour. It’s studded with egg, slivers of fried onion and little crunchy grenades of crackly pork.

There’s three cucumber slices, two of tomato, a handful of elongated pickled carrot, and more similarly pickled carrot that is shredded and part of jumble with lettuce and mint.

The chicken is well-cooked, tender and – yes! – easily removed from the bone.

Best of all, all these components are in exactly the right proportions, with the last of each of them disappearing with the last mouthful. This is something that rates really highly with me.

Well-satisfied, I head into the market on my grocery mission just as the music situation takes a surreal turn with a cheesy cocktail bar Viet version of House Of  The Rising Sun.

A tip for semi-regular users of Footscray Market, as we are: The market has instituted a pay-station method of paying for parking. There is no pay station on the roof, so I make more use of the market’s lumbering elevators than anticipated.

Ms Baklover at Footscray Food Blog was in a particularly meditative mood when she had pho here.