Parotta Station, 28A Millers Road, Brooklyn. Phone: 9314 9934
At Parotta Station, you’ll be served south Indian food.
So anyone even passingly familiar with the west’s many dosa joints – or even its Sri Lankan places – will feel right at home.
There’s string hoppers, a simple dosa offering, the chopped bread dish that is kothu – along with things of broader Indian outlook such as lamb and chicken kormas, biryanis and a small range of Indo-Chinese dishes.
But the proprietor has some twists going on here very much down to his home state of Tamil Nadu.
Most emphatically, they come in the form of the eponymous parotta, a version of the eternal flatbread.
In this case, the bread is lovingly moulded into a scroll before being fried, the result being a marvellous, magical and flaky experience.
Parotta Station serves them in a variety of ways, including egg-stuffed ($3.50), two of which we take away for Bennie’s next-day school lunch.
But the big hit for us is the combo named “parotta with saalna” ($6.50).
Two standard, fresh and sublime parotta.
A salted fried egg.
And a generous tub of coconut/tomato curry gravy. We’re told this is meat-based to the extent it uses a mutton stock as part of the base. I’m sure it’d be no problem to have it substituted by the potato or mixed vegetable dishes on offer.
How good is this?
Right up there.
We’d rate this as good a cheap eat as can be found and rank it right alongside the very best to be had at banh mi or dosa establishments anywhere.
These look like plump ginger cookies.
Shamiyan ($11.50) are patties made of lentils and lamb mince that taste and feel of neither.
They have a very mild spice kick and are very dry; we happily dip them in the curry gravy served with our parotta.
They’re an interesting experience, but not one that completely bowls us over.
Aatu kaal paya ($12.50) is a stew of lamb trotters.
Forget any ideas of similarity to pork hocks or even lamb shanks.
The most precise comparison here is with chicken feet – there’s no meat whatsoever, just various shards and lumps of random glutinous material.
So not everyone’s cup of tea – obviously!
But if you are hip to Chinese-style chicken feet, go right ahead.
But at Parotta Station, parotta are the main go.
We reckon we’ll be inhaling that “parotta with saalna” combo many times in the coming year.
Parotta Station is on Uber for those in appropriate postcodes and is closed on Tuesdays.