Jaffna Chef, 21 Sun Crescent, Sunshine. Phone: 9311 3131

We’d spied Jaffna Chef in the process of being fitted out while walking to our rendezvous at Dragon Express for CTS Feast No.3 and took note.

Returning just a few weeks later, I’m surprised to find it up and running.

Though it appears that is a case of only just.

A modestly-sized grocery is still in the process of being stocked and the eat-in fare is so far restricted to a mostly regulation line-up of bain marie goodies, but I am nevertheless made to feel welcome.

I’m told that a more formal menu and longer list of dishes will be unrolled in coming weeks.

I look forward to that, and am happy to make do with what’s available in the meantime.

My $8.50 plate is fine – and very familiar on account of the now regular work Friday lunchtime curry runs to Spicy Corner in Tullamarine.

The dal is coconutty, creamy and studded with still-crunchy green chilli.

The lamb curry is on the bone and bit fiddly. Still, it’s nothing unexpected – but take care of your teeth!

Like all else, the spud curry is at the higher end of spiciness.